March 20, 2007

Measuring for the Feisdress pattern

This will help those measuring for the Feisdress pattern to identify the marks needed for correct measuring. Points are identified to correspond to the measurement sheet which can be downloaded here...and you have to be a member of IDDressmaking to view it, so sign up.

IMPORTANT: When marking these points and later taking the measurements your dancer should be standing as if in front of a judge – head high and straight, shoulders aligned, arms straight at sides. You will probably find it necessary to remind her to stand this way before taking each measurement, but this is very important for achieving the best fit for the stage.

Use a water-based magic marker to place dots (either directly on the skin or place small pieces of adhesive tape on the spot and mark the dot on the tape) on the following locations:

Point A) Upper chest – Have your dancer stand with arms straight down at the sides. There will be creases coming from her armpit upward. Mentally extend the line of those creases around the curve of her shoulder joint. They will curve inward as they go up. Mark a point on the curve an inch higher that the top of the crease on each side.

Point B) Drape a necklace/chain/weighted string around the back of the neck with the ends hanging straight down in front. Mark the point the necklace crosses the shoulder seam on both sides. Ideally, this should be in line with the mastoid process (the small hollow close under the back of the lower part of the ear). Many people stand with their heads too far forward; if this is the case, put the mark where you want the neck/shoulder seam to be.


Leave the necklace in place.






Point C) Mark the end of the shoulder bone straight over from mark B. This will be the position of your bodice shoulder seam. Make sure it isn’t rolling forward – it is best for it to be even on top of the shoulder, but more towards the back is better than too far towards the front.

After you mark the neckline and shoulder point on both sides, step back and look at the dancer. If you can see the dots from the front, you will be able to see the shoulder seam from the front. Move them back as necessary - you don’t want to see the seam, especially if the color or fabric is different in the front and back bodice pieces.



Point D) Mark the center front neck at the middle of the hollow at the base of the throat (top edges of the clavicle bones).













Pin a ribbon around the waistline. It should be snug, but not tight. Most people’s waistlines slant, usually higher in back than in the front. Step back and make sure the ribbon is parallel to the floor all the way around. Pay particular attention to the side view – usually it is best to lower the part that is high. Take all measurements to the natural waist. If you want to drop the waist, when you are finished with all the measurements, put a second ribbon where you want a new waistline to be and measure the new circumference, the distance between the bottom edges of both ribbons and new front and back lengths and slopes. NOTE: All measurements will be taken from the bottom edge of this ribbon. Use paper clips to mark the following points on the waistline ribbon:

Point E) Center front

Point F) Side seams

Point G) Center back



Point H) Mark the center back at the at the top of the 1st Thoracic vertebra. To find it, nod your head so your chin goes to your chest. Feel your back neck. Find the first BONE that doesn’t move with your neck. You might have to do it a few times because the skin and muscle will move. Feel for the bone.

Point I) Mark the point on the wrist/hand where you want your finished sleeve to end.

Point J) Use piece of adhesive tape with ink dots on them to mark the bust points.

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